*This page has affiliate links to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. (info)
Leather boots are an investment, and taking care of them ensures they age beautifully and perform well for years. The products you use to clean and condition them make all the difference. Not all cleaners or conditioners serve the same purpose. Some focus on removing grime, while others restore lost oils or add a weather-protective layer.
These are popular types of leather boot oils, conditioners and cleaners:
- Lightweight conditioner – This is what I use the most because it conditions the leather without darkening it. Perfect if you want to keep the leather soft and supple without altering its color or sheen. Click here to view Bickmore BICK 4 which is the lightweight conditioner I use.
- Mink oil is best for heavily used outdoor or work boots that need deep waterproofing and conditioning, though it may darken the leather more than lightweight conditioners. Click here to view Fiebing’s mink oil available at Amazon.
- Shoe grease is a heavyweight conditioner and it is thicker than mink oil and adds a waxy barrier on top of the leather, giving longer-lasting surface protection and less soaking in, making it ideal for wet or muddy conditions. Click here to view Huberd’s shoe grease available at Amazon
- Neatsfoot oil is a traditional boot oil similar to mink oil but often used for older, dried-out leather that needs heavy rehydration rather than just waterproofing. Click here to view Bickmore Neatsfoor Oil available at Amazon.
- Leather Protecting Wax Leather preservative wax forms a protective surface barrier. Many of these LP waxes use natural ingredients. Wax is best for shielding against harsh elements, whereas the oils discussed above are better for hydrating damaged or dry leather. Click here to view Obenauf’s Leather Preservative Wax available at Amazon.
- Saddle soap is suited for deep cleaning tough, dirty work boots when you need to remove grime before conditioning. This is a heavyweight leather cleaner. Click here to view Bickmore Saddle Soap available at Amazon.
- Other Leather Cleaner If you need a quick wipe-down and don’t want to use saddle soap, there are specialized leather cleaners. They often don’t provide as deep of a clean as saddle soap, but can be a bit easier on leather. Click here to view Bickmore BICK 1 leather cleaner available at Amazon.
Below is a detailed guide that breaks down the main types of boot cleaners and conditioners, explaining what each does, how they differ, and when to use them.
Leather Boot Cleaners
Cleaning leather is the first and most important step before conditioning. Dirt, sweat, and salt can slowly break down leather fibers, leading to cracking or discoloration. Cleaners help remove those contaminants without overly drying the hide. There are two main types most people use: saddle soap and liquid leather cleaners.
Saddle Soap
Saddle soap has been used for generations. It’s a traditional cleaner made from mild soap, softening agents like lanolin, and often a touch of beeswax. It’s designed to clean and lightly condition in one step.
Saddle soap is especially popular among people who wear heavy work boots or equestrian leather because it cuts through grime and adds a light protective finish. It works best for sturdy, full-grain leather that can handle a deeper clean.
Pros:
- Deep-cleans dirt, sweat, and grime
- Provides light conditioning and a mild wax finish
- Time-tested and affordable
Cons:
- Can darken lighter leather tones
- Slightly alkaline, so overuse can dry the leather
- Not ideal for delicate or exotic leathers
Saddle soap is best used occasionally—perhaps once every few months for work boots that see heavy wear. Use it sparingly, and always follow up with a conditioner afterward to replace any lost oils.
Liquid Leather Cleaners
Liquid leather cleaners are modern alternatives to saddle soap and are designed for convenience and gentler cleaning. Bickmore Bick 1 is one of the most popular examples. It’s a non-alkaline cleaner that lifts dirt and stains without stripping natural oils or darkening the leather.
Unlike saddle soap, which lathers and leaves a mild residue, liquid cleaners like Bick 1 evaporate cleanly when wiped off. They’re especially suited for smooth leathers and lighter finishes, and they’re preferred by people who want to maintain their boot’s original color.
Pros:
- Gentle and color-safe on most leathers
- Easy to apply with no need for rinsing
- Doesn’t leave a waxy finish
Cons:
- Not as strong for deep grime or oil buildup
- Offers no conditioning or protection on its own
For everyday or moderate cleaning, liquid cleaners are often the safer and simpler option. However, it’s very important not to let too much liquid cleaner sit and air dry on the leather. Always wipe it dry immediately after use to prevent spotting or moisture rings.
Leather Boot Conditioners
Once your boots are clean, conditioning is what keeps the leather supple and prevents cracking. Conditioners work by replenishing the natural oils and fats that leather loses over time from wear and exposure. There are several categories of conditioners, ranging from lightweight creams to heavy-duty oils and greases, each serving a specific purpose.
Lightweight Conditioners
Lightweight conditioners such as Bickmore Bick 4 are perfect for maintaining the natural look and feel of your boots without darkening or altering the finish. Bick 4 is a water-based formula that both conditions and polishes, making it ideal for dress boots, casual leathers, and exotics.
Its main purpose is to restore flexibility and prevent drying, particularly in leathers that don’t face heavy moisture or dirt exposure. Because it’s lighter, it absorbs quickly and leaves no greasy residue. It can even be used safely on exotics like lizard, ostrich, or snake skin—materials that heavier oils could damage or discolor.
Lightweight conditioners are best applied regularly, about once a month for frequently worn boots. They’re excellent for keeping leather soft, smooth, and evenly colored without changing the tone.
Heavy Oils and Shoe Grease
Heavier treatments like mink oil, neatsfoot oil, and shoe greases penetrate deeply to restore moisture and add significant weather resistance. These are often used on work boots, hiking boots, and outdoor leather gear exposed to rain, snow, or mud.
Here’s the bottle of Huberd’s I use:
Mink oil is known for providing a high level of waterproofing by saturating the leather fibers with oil. It can significantly extend the lifespan of outdoor boots, but it also tends to darken the color permanently. Neatsfoot oil performs similarly, though it’s usually derived from animal fats and can make certain leathers too soft if used excessively.
Shoe greases, often made from a mix of oils, waxes, and tallow, provide an even stronger layer of protection. They fill the pores of the leather, blocking out moisture while keeping the surface flexible. This makes them excellent for winter boots or rugged work boots that take daily abuse.
Pros:
- Provides deep conditioning and waterproofing
- Extends boot life under harsh conditions
- Ideal for heavy-duty or outdoor leathers
Cons:
- Can permanently darken leather
- May soften structured leathers too much
- Not ideal for exotic or delicate finishes
Heavy oils and greases should be used sparingly and only when necessary. A good rule of thumb is to apply them once or twice a year unless your boots see extreme weather.
Leather Preservative Balms
Leather preservative balms are hybrid products that combine conditioning oils with natural waxes. They offer both nourishment and surface protection in a single formula. Examples include products that blend beeswax, lanolin, and mineral or plant-based oils.
Unlike light conditioners, which focus on flexibility, or oils, which penetrate deeply, balms work at the surface level to create a thin moisture barrier. They’re especially useful for casual and heritage-style boots where you want a matte, slightly waxy feel rather than a glossy shine.
Balms are also helpful in cold or dry climates, as they slow down moisture loss from the leather. They can be safely used between deeper conditioning treatments to maintain protection and appearance.
Pros:
- Offers balanced conditioning and protection
- Helps repel light moisture and dirt
- Adds a soft luster without making leather greasy
Cons:
- May darken very light leathers slightly
- Not as deeply conditioning as oils or as light as creams
Balms are a good “middle-ground” product for people who want protection without using heavier oils. They work especially well for boots that are worn frequently but not exposed to extreme elements.
Choosing the Right Product
Selecting the right cleaner or conditioner depends on how you use your boots and what type of leather they’re made from.
- For dress boots, stick to gentle liquid cleaners and light conditioners like Bick 1 and Bick 4. These preserve color and finish while maintaining softness.
- For rugged work boots, saddle soap or a stronger cleaner followed by mink oil or a shoe grease provides the durability and weatherproofing needed.
- For everyday casual boots, a light balm or cream conditioner offers enough protection and keeps them looking fresh.
It’s also wise to test any product on a small, inconspicuous area before applying it across the entire boot. Different leathers, finishes, and dyes can react differently, and even a high-quality product can darken leather unexpectedly.
How to Care for Leather Boots
Proper technique is just as important as choosing the right product. Start by removing the laces and brushing off loose dirt with a soft horsehair brush. Apply the cleaner gently with a soft cloth or applicator pad, using circular motions.
For saddle soap, use minimal water and avoid letting suds dry on the surface. With liquid cleaners like Bick 1, apply lightly and wipe dry immediately to prevent streaks or moisture damage.
Once the boots are clean and dry, apply your chosen conditioner. Work it into the leather evenly, focusing on creases and flex points where cracking often begins.
Allow it to absorb for several minutes, then buff with a horsehair brush or soft cloth to restore the natural sheen. If using a balm or grease, apply sparingly to avoid buildup and sticky surfaces.
For waterproofing, let the product cure overnight before wearing the boots outdoors. This ensures the oils or waxes have fully absorbed into the leather.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
One of the biggest mistakes is over-conditioning. Too much oil or cream can clog the leather pores, making it heavy and preventing it from breathing.
Another mistake is letting wet cleaners or soaps dry naturally on the surface. This can lead to dull spots or even salt-like residue. Always wipe away excess moisture before allowing the leather to air dry completely.
Avoid mixing multiple types of conditioners at once, as ingredients may react and cause cloudiness or uneven finish. Stick with one brand or product line per cleaning session for consistency.